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Monday, May 28, 2012

Ahhhh... we are home

Our flight was a little bumpy over Canada, but otherwise it was smooth and uneventful. We landed yesterday at LAX in the evening and took a shared ride shuttle home, where our dear kitty Hazel was very happy to see us. Since then, she has been following us around meowing and rubbing on our legs incessantly. Soon we hope to pick up the Chooch from our friend.

Today is our one year anniversary, and we plan on celebrating with some red wine and Bavarian chocolates after a nice grilled dinner on the back patio. Our three week adventure was so amazing, and spending our anniversary at home is a perfect ending to our belated honeymoon.

We have waaaaay more pictures to share, but it is going to take a bit of time to upload and organize them.

We are so thankful that we were able to do this and are so grateful to everyone who made it possible. Thank you!

<3 Kristen + Steve






Saturday, May 26, 2012

Some bike eye candy for our bici peeps...

I am thinking of the Bicycle Kitchen crew right now and wishing that I was helping with the move to its new home!

Here are some fantastic bike scenes that we have seen in our travels.








Auf wiedersehen Munich

Yesterday we rented bicycles yet again. We rode around Englischer Garden and saw some unexpected sights: a huge Chinese Tower surrounded by a huge beer garden, many naked sunbathers, and a bunch of dudes surfing in a river! For dinner, we ate spätzel and dumplings at the Hofbrau Haus and we washed it all down with giant mugs of beer.

Right now we are packing to leave for Zurich, which we will fly out of tomorrow morning.

Our honeymoon has been absolutely amazing. Thank you to those who made this adventure possible!






Friday, May 25, 2012

Typewriter eye candy for our friend Jen...







We are in Munich

We arrived in Munich by train two days ago. The ride was lovely and took us through the flowering hills and valleys of Austria.

Yesterday we did some more modern art bingeing at Pinakothek Der Moderne and the Brandhorst Moderne. We got up close and personel with works by Picasso, Beckmann, de Kooning, Warhol, Ernst, Matisse, and many, many more. Both of the museums are stunning examples of modern architecture which we thoroughly enjoyed wandering around in.

Today we are going to rent some bikes and ride around a big park called Englischer Garden that runs along side the Isar River. While Bozen was a bike heaven, Munich is a serious bike metropolis. Everywhere you look, there are rows and rows of bikes. As far as traffic laws go, it seems to be a free for all when it comes to bikes; they seem to have full rights on both the sidewalk as well as the road, and pedestrians best get out of the way. If you hear a ding, don't turn to look at them, just immediately move to the right.

Later this evening we are planning on hitting up a giant beer hall!








Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Pics from Levanto & Cinque Terre








Some Do's & Dont's... (pics 2 follow)

Do eat things that you've never had before - As was stated in the last post, we were introduced to Ribolita, a vegetable bread soup in Florence. Now, all I (Kris10) want is Ribolita for breakfast, lunch & dinner for the rest of my life.
We also enjoyed one particularly crazy looking tomato in Venice. It almost was shaped like a little pumpkin, with deep creases that radiated from the stem. It was so juicy and flavorful. We ate it on a bench in a park in front of the train station with some fragrant cheese, a small loaf of crusty bread & two cans of Peroni, which is a cheap, yet good, Italian lager.

Don't touch the produce. - I was fondleing said tomato when a man started waving at me while yelling, "Non toccare! Non toccare!" We were standing at an outdoor produce stand getting our lunch fixings together for later. I totally understand why you are not suppose to touch the produce; the merchants spend so much time perfectly stacking every piece & it does keep their display quite beautiful. If you want something, just point and ask.

Do accept the tiny glass of "water" that the bartender just poured from an unmarked bottle - Less than a week ago we walked through coastal hills covered with olive groves and vineyards from Corniglia to Manarola, two towns in Cinque Terre, Italy. Before we embarked, we popped into a very small local bar to purchase a little bottle of Limonetto to enjoy later on in the day. There were two quite jolly men inside who laughed and said that the water in their town was very good and offered us some. Oh boy, was it good! Whatever it was, it was very clear, smooth, delicious, & very strong. I asked the man behind the bar if he had made it himself, and he said yes. Oh yeah, we had just had some Corniglian hooch!

Don't let anybody tie anything onto your wrist - When we visited the Castello Sforzesco in Milan, there were maybe 8 or so men standing around holding bunches of small string bracelets. At one point during our visit, a man aproached me all smiles and started talking to me. I said hello back then when I looked over my shoulder for Steve, who was maybe 10 feet away, the man very quickly knotted a string bracelet on my left wrist. He then demanded 5 euro, which is equal to maybe 7 bucks or more. For a piece of string?! We refused, gave him 60 cents, and walked away. The experience was nothing horrible, but just keep your hands in your pockets when you see the smiling men with handfuls of bracelets.

Do get the house wine - It is always more reasonable than any bottle they have, and almost always very good. Almost... which leads me to...

Don't hesitate to leave a restaurant if the house wine sucks - It was a little late in Venice and we were having a bit of trouble getting a table for dinner. After a bit we walked into a place that had plenty of tables, (red flag.) They sat us and we ordered. As we had requested, they brought us the house white. We took one sip and stared at eachother in disbelief. No, it couldn't be. We both took another sip & I think that is when the panic set in. Even though our order was in and there was salad on the table, we frantically told our server that something came up and we had to go.

The wine was watered down! D: There were many other red flags, but that was the big one.
We ended up having a lovely meal at a small family run place just a few doors away. We tried to order fish, as we had at the previous place. Our new waiter said that he could not serve us fish, because the fish market had been closed for two days. The other place with the watered down wine was about to serve us old fish! That could have really ruined the next few days for us.

Do accept candy when it is offered to you by old ladies - They will insist multiple times until you take one. Unlike the younger Italian population who have studied english in school, a good portion of the older generation in Italy do not speak english, and candy offering is a good way to show you that they like you. Take it & eat it. It will be good.

Don't book a room without knowing how to get there first - We spent a big chunk of time booking a room in Mainz one fine morning while we were in Levanto. On the map, it looks like it would only take maybe 4 hours from one place to the other. Later that evening we decided to check the train schedule just before we went to bed. Guess how long it was going to take... 18 hours! Whoops. We then had to completely scrap that leg of the trip and cancel the room. We love riding the train, but not that much!

It was all good, though, because we randomly ended up visiting the beautiful city of Bozen instead, which is a really wonderful slice of heaven in northern Italy.

Do bring a meal to eat on the train - We have been enjoying al fresco lunches almost every day, everywhere we go. It has proved to be quite cheap and has provided the opportunity for us to visit local markets and eat fresh, regional produce, bread, olives & cheese.

There was one particularly long travel day with multiple transfers when we neglected to stock up and we had to eat from the cafe car. Let me tell you, train food is train food, no matter where you are.

Don't forget to fill your water bottle before getting on the train - The water from the tap on the train is not potable. We have been carrying one of our steel water bottles, and the tap water in all of the towns we have visited has been deeeelicious, but we neglected to fill up once before getting on a train and had to buy a plastic bottle. Not a terrible experience, but plastic bottles just end up as more trash. (You all know it; we have hippie leanings.)

Do follow your nose & ears - We had just arrived in Bozen, Italy. It was dinner time on a Sunday and the whole city seemed to be closed. We wandered down a few cobble stone streets until we intercepted a wafting aroma of garlic. We followed the smell and soon heard many people laughing and talking inside a bar. It turned out to be a microbrew pub that served the most amazing dumplings ever. We ate there for dinner for every night that we were in Bozen; it was that good.

Don't get the two day pass for Cinque Terre - One day of sharing very steep & narrow foot trails with literally hoards of other tourists was all we could handle. We instead spent our second day riding rented bikes along a path that followed the Mediterranian coast and an old train line. We also discovered a secret nude beach!

Do rent bikes - When there is bike rental offered, it means that you are in a great place to ride. When you explore a new place by bicycle, you experience way more than just the sights. From the saddle, you hear and smell the landscape too, and you will be forced to take breaks to catch your breath, drink some water, and reflect. Ask the bike rental people where you should go; they are locals and will likely know the best place to go for a ride.

Don't stay in hotels that do not have WiFi - It makes it so much harder to plan. We have been really relying on our smart phones for directions, train times, restaurant reviews, and hotel booking. There are internet cafes where you can pay for WiFi, but I personally prefer to not have to get dressed and do my hair to get on the internet.

Don't buy stinky cheese to eat on the train - Your neighbors will surely resent you. Stinky cheese is amazing and should certainly be consumed in large quantities as often as possible, especially with dried figs, but keep it on the park bench, folks.

Do select and sit in your specifically assigned seats on the train - It is plenty easy to get those window seats and stay in them. The car and seat number system is simple to use and easy to undetstand.

Don't let people take your seats - If you have window seats, people may try to take them. There was a pair of women who refused to get out of our seats & Steve missed seeing a real, live chariot race. He still doesn't believe that I saw it!

Also, if someone is in your seat, that means that you are in someone elses too, and you will probably have to move. Just make the people who are in your seats vacate; they are the ones being rude, not you.

So, that's it for now! See you at the next post! <3 K+S

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Florence

Florence is a very old city that has a modern attitude & bustle. The streets are narrow and paved with big stone blocks upon which hurry people, bicycles, cars & scooters, all at once. There are sidewalks, (in most places,) but they are often only 3 feet wide and are lined with buildings that are roughly 75 feet tall with absolutely no setbacks. Unlike Milan, the core of Florence ecscaped the ravages of WWII, resulting in the majority of the buildings being incredibly old, many of which were constructed out of large stone blocks.

Once we arrived in the late afternoon, we located the hostel, checked in & dropped our bags, then ran back out to visit the Piazza del Duomo & climb the top of Giotto's Campanile, which is right next to the cathedral and clad in the same striped marble pattern. The view was incredible from 278 feet up! Soon after, we ate some dinner at a little place called Osteria Pepo, where we were introduced to Ribolita, a Tuscan vegetable and bread soup that is so comforting and delicious.

After fueling up, we walked to Palazzo Vecchio and toured the Medici Palace. The palace is currently mostly empty, aside from a few select Roman statues, a table or two, and one very large globe. The ceilings, though, were either covered in stunning paintings or carved & gilded, often both. Outside the palace doors are many large, marble Roman statues that are free to the public to view. We lingered, admiring the beautiful and dramatic mythological figures while the songs of street musicians filled the square and people ate gelato on the stone steps.

The majority of the next day was spent at the Uffizi, which is a huge art museum that has been housing master works of art since 1581. In it we viewed pieces of art that I (Kristen) have read much about in books. We got to view works by Botticelli, da Vinci, Michelangelo, Giotto, Titian and many, many others from just inches away. These works were never, ever meant to be in books, folks. If you are interested in art, you must visit this place! One piece by Michelangelo, Doni Tondo, a colorful painting where the fabrics and skin of the people within seemed to radiate light, filled me with emotion and almost brought me to tears.

Then we got gelato and went to bed.

Now we are in Levanto, the gateway to Cinque Terre, which is a series of 5 little towns that dot the Mediterranean coast. Somehow, we managed to view the Giro d'Italia, Italy's version of Tour d'France, not once, but twice!

We are here for three nights, so I think we are going to slow it down a bit. I think this place is all about the hiking trails & food (of course).